Build w/ Parts List - Little FOCer, TorquePack, SuperFlux - Version 3.22

I am not an engineer or an electronics expert. I’m just a guy that likes to tinker in his garage and I’m learning all of this as I go. I’m also obsessed with this sport and I want to see it grow and flourish. I didn’t even know how to solder before I began this project. If you decide to reference my build, please also do your own research. Watch/read the excellent build guides put out by Surfdado, Mario Contino, and others. Also, read the f’ing manual.

Mario’s 20s FOCer Build Log
Surfdado’s vesc conversion tutorial videos

This is a work in progress and it will be updated as things change, but I wanted to share my build diagram because I think it may be useful to others. I plan to eventually finalize this post with a completed diagram and build photos. If you have any questions or suggestions, please share!

For this build, I am using one XT90 and one Switchcraft 6 pin connector instead of the 16 pin Molex for the wiring harness. I’m using a customized version of Flowglider’s little focer V3 WTFoc MK2 controller enclosure, which I’ve uploaded to Thingiverse here:

Remixed little focer V3 WTFoc MK2 (XT90 and Switchcraft) by robocat_studios - Thingiverse

As of October 15, I’ve had my board back together and it is pretty much complete. Since then, I’ve ridden about 200 miles off-road. I modified and printed the flowglider controller box and it is working spectacularly. For a 3D printed box, ASA filament seems to be a good choice. I’m not seeing any stress cracks or layer separation - at least not yet. I’m also very happy with my choice of connectors. Nothing has worked its way loose and it’s easy to assemble/disassemble.

I want to consider this build diagram as pretty much final, but I’m still waiting on a couple of things:

  1. SuperFlux hub motor - I don’t anticipate any surprises but this build won’t be complete without it.
  2. Ennoid XLITE-24 BMS - The wiring for my BMS is working fine, but I haven’t been able to fully test it since there seems to be a problem with the device itself. I’m waiting on a replacement from the manufacturer.



  • Breakout wiring details for the footpad and hall sensors.


  • Added some build notes.
  • Uploaded photos.
  • Formatting.


  • Corrected typos


  • Uploaded remixed version of the Flowglider’s WTFoc MK2 controller enclosure to Thingiverse.

  • Added wiring detail for the latching LED switch.


  • I couldn’t make the XT90E-M fit next to a 6 pin Molex on the controller enclosure, so I decided to go with a 6 pin Switchcraft connector. Thanks to devnull for the suggestion. This is similar to the connector used for the hall sensors and the footpad. The solder cups on the 6 pin Switchcraft are made for 20AWG wire, so I’m using that for the charging circuit. 20AWG silicone wire is rated for around 12A, the Switchcraft connector is 7.5A, and the charger provides 5A, so everything should be good.
  • Added wiring for the CAN bus. Using 20AWG for 5v and GND. And 22AWG shielded for CANH and CANL.
  • I’ve modified the Flowglider controller enclosure in Fusion 360 for use with the Switchcraft and XT90 connectors (instead of the 16 pin Molex). It’s printing now, so once I’ve verified that the tolerances and placement are right, I’ll upload it as a remixed file on Thingiverse and Printables.
  • Updated parts list with Switchcraft connectors, shielded wire, and JST connectors.


  • Corrected typo in parts listing


  • Reorganized the layout for general readability.
  • Included a parts list with purchase links and cost.
  • Removed the XT60 external mount and replaced it with a 6 pin molex. This will allow room for wiring in the Ennoid to the VESC CAN bus.
  • Added a 10A fuse to the charging circuit. Which fuse(s) should we use?
  • Added a 40A fuse to the discharge circuit. Which fuse(s) should we use?
  • Moved from Tune Cards and Build Details to FAQs & How-tos


  • I’m ditching the 16 pin molex connecter for the main wiring harness. It’s takes up too much space and it is only rated for around 30 amps. With the TorquePack and the SuperFlux, I hope to be pulling more than that. I also wanted to incorporate the anti-spark into the wiring harness, so I’m going to be using mountable XT90 and XT60 connectors.

  • I tried the FlowGlider 3D printed extended battery box, but the TorquePack won’t fit without modification. I was able to pick up a TorqueBox at FloatLife Fest, so I’m going to use that instead.

  • Updated the wiring in the battery box to accommodate for space limitations.

Purchase links are included for convenience and reference. I aquired some parts through these links, but others were on hand or included in various DIY bundles such as the one from MakersPEV.

To see all columns, hover over the table and click on “Expand Table”.

  Parts List      
Item URL  Cost  Notes
1 SuperFlux Hub Motor  $     349.00
2 BadgerWheel TORqueBOX  $     320.00
3 Flowglider 3D Printed WTFoc Mk2 - Remixed  $     100.00 Will post remix soon, cost is based on having part printed
4 7-33mm M20 Cable Gland  $          8.60 Altech 4220620
5 ChiBatterySystems TORque Pack w/ Charger  $     714.00
6 Ennoid BMS XLITE-24  $     245.00
7 Latching Push Button Switch  $       20.00
8 Little FOCer v3 US: | International:  $     300.00 Link is for Little FOCer v3.1
9 XLR Charge Port  $       14.55 Neutrik NC3MPR-HD
10 Future Motion XR Sensor Footpad  $     150.00
11 6 Pin Molex Motor Power Connector  $       30.00
12 Footpad Connector  $       30.00
13 Hall Sensor Connector  $       30.00
14 6 Pin Switchcraft Male Panel Connector  $          9.80
15 XT90E-M Mountable Male Plug  $       14.99 Pack of 10
16 XT90S Female Connector  $       12.99 Pack of 5 pairs
17 XT30 Connectors  $          8.58 Pack of 10 pairs
18 XT60 Connectors  $          8.99 Pack of 10 pairs
19 12 AWG Silicone Wire  $       29.98 25 ft
20 20 AWG Silicone Wire  $       18.88 25 ft
21 Wiring Harness Sleeve  $          9.99 10 ft
22 10 A Fuse  $          0.86
23 40 A Fuse  $          1.93
24 6 Pin Switchcraft Female Cable End  $       14.79
25 JST Connector Kit  $       23.99
26 Shielded 22 AWG Wire for CAN bus  $       31.10 100 ft
27 6 Pin Molex Female Connector  $          6.16
  Not Pictured      
Lid Kit for 3D Printed Flowglider Controller Enclosure  $       45.00
BadgerWheel Bumper for TORqueBOX  $       70.00
The Float Life FAF Varial Rails  $     350.00
The Float Life Enduro Tire  $     109.00
The Float Life Fender Deletes  $       20.00
The Float Life LifeSavers  $       29.00
The Float Life Kush Wide  $     105.00
WTFoc MK2 Connector Cover  $       20.00
Electric Bigfoot XR HoverPad Grip  $       69.95
    Total Cost  $ 3,322.13  

To see all columns, hover over the table and click on “Expand Table”.


What about wire for LEDs in your wiring harness?

I’m not running LEDs. It’s a lot easier to carry a flashlight when I need one.

Amazing summary and work. Curiousbif you couldbsave space on the BMS and power supply running the same 6 pin molex connector vs two individual ports through the controller box?

Looking forward to your upsates.

Thank you! I chose to break out the discharge circuit from the 6 pin molex because Ennoid recommends placing an anti-spark between the battery and the ESC. If I could find a high amperage connector with 8 pins and anti-spark, I would definitely consolidate into one connector.

Here’s the relevant section of the Ennoid XLITE-24 docs:

If I want to add addressable LEDs to mine I’d come up one wire short I think right?

VESC Gnd (do I need this. Isn’t the - battery lead already connected? Also, what are ground loops and how do I make sure I avoid them)?
5V (5V 3A line)

That’s 7 total

From what I understand, ground loops can occur when two systems of varying voltage use the same grounding points. This causes unexpected current to flow into the lower voltage system. For this build, it would be the difference from the discharge circuit (up to 80v) and the LED circuit (5v in this case?). So, yeah I think you would still need to connect to the 5v ground.

That said, I haven’t done any research into connecting LEDs and I don’t intend to install them in my build. Maybe someone else with experience can comment. Or you might want to search for that topic or make a separate post if you don’t find anything.

What about using one of these anti-spark connectors which have 4 signal pins built in you could use for the charging wires?:

Edit: Mmm doesn’t look like either of those have something like the XT90E for easy mounting to the box.

Instead of the 6 pin mollex what about using this 8 pin switchcraft connector which is rated for 250V 6.5A:

It actually looks like there’s already a file for this called xt90_controller_mount_v3.stl which plugs up the 16 pin molex (if you already have an exsisting box printed) in exchange for a XT90 and switchcraft mounting hole.

I just finished reading over that conversation on Vescify. It looks like using either the Switchcraft or Molex connector in conjunction with an XT90S is the best option. I didn’t even consider the Switchcraft connectors, so I’m glad you mentioned it. I’ve actually already got some 6 pins lying around that I can use. I think I’ll be going this route instead of the Molex.

If there was something like the AS120 with 6 additional pins, that would be perfect for my application.

Sounds good. Just make sure you don’t go over 7.5A for charging with the 6 pin Switchcraft and you should be all good.

There’s which @otisthebigcow is going to try using but I don’t see any mention of it being anti-spark.

I wish that connector had anti-spark! Otherwise, it looks perfect.

I updated my post with a link to the remixed Flowglider box. It works great with the XT90 and Switchcraft.

Hello. I’m a little confused by what you have in your picture, and what you have listed in your list of parts.
#24 in your list says it’s the “6 Pin Switchcraft Female Cable End,” but your picture of it, and the picture on the switchcraft website, don’t match up. If you are using the 6 pin, how are you wiring it to the makerspev 6-pin molex connector?
Thanks for your time.

this is so awesome, thank you for putting this together @TK_G !

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There were some typos in the parts lists. The images were correct, however. Should be corrected now though.

Wow thanks for the writeup! Gonna start saving up now!

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@Astambl For sure! Let me know if you have any questions.

@davestewart You’re welcome! :smiley:

Hey, thanks for this, really helpful. When I open the link for the 6 pin Molex female connector it actually shows a similar connector but with only 4 pins, is it just a bug in the picture or wrong link? Thanks again bud!

You’re welcome!

Sometimes parts suppliers don’t show the correct image. If you cross reference the part number from Mouser with Molex’s website, you’ll see the right photo. Or look at the data sheet on Mouser.

Not sure if there’s room, but another idea I had was to use a 6/8 pin Mollex connector which is rated up to 18 amps per pin:

That’s mainly if you care about potentially charging at higher rates that the Switchcraft connector can’t handle (e.g. I have a 20s 10amp charger).

Edit. mmm yeah not sure if there’d be enough room.

how hard was it to get that gland into the box? I think I ordered the same one but idk how to get it in there. Is PG13.5 same as M20?