How to swap Hypercore to Fungineers motor connector

[quinnwheel]

This guide will help you install a Fungineers motor cable in your Hypercore motor. This method replaces the entire cable, leaving you with a reliable and professional-looking conversion that will last for years. No splicing, no cable bulge, and extra length tucked inside the axle for future length adjustments.

Modifying the internals of a motor can be daunting! Please familiarize yourself with the full process before starting. Nothing worse than getting 3/4 finished and realizing you forgot to order sealant or replacement bearing o rings!

Tools:

• allen keys
• soldering iron
• solder sucker or solder wick
• side cutters
• wire strippers
• flat head screwdriver (to poke the black sealant out of the axle)
• tweezers (to untie and tie the string)
• heat gun

Materials:

• Hypercore
• Fungineers motor connector (motor side)
• solder
• heat shrink
• flowable silicone (or another heat resistant sealant)
• replacement bearing o rings (XR or GT/Pint)

Steps:

1. take the stator out of the hub:

   • remove the 7 bolts from the cover plate
   • bolt a rail onto the axle on the plate side and use it to lift the stator out of the hub
   • remove the rail and axle block, then pull the cover plate off
     
     

2. disconnect the old motor cable wires:

   • untie the string holding down the wires and save it for later
   • take the heat shrink off of the phase wires
   • desolder and disconnect the phase wires from the windings
   • note: if you accidentally cut one of the motor windings, you’ll need to scrape off the nonconductive coating before resoldering the wire back together
   • take a picture of the hall sensor PCB to remember the order of the wires!
   • unsolder the small wires (temp + hall sensors)
     
     

3. remove the old cable:

   • carefully pick away as much of the white sealant from around the phase wires as you can
   • pick away as much of the black sealant from inside the axle as you can
   • remove the rubber seal from the motor cable side of the axle
   • pull the old motor cable out of the axle

4. insert the new cable:

   • feed the new motor cable through the rubber axle seal
   • feed the cable into the axle and through the cable hole
   • fold the excess cable in half and shove it into the axle so you can adjust the cable length later
     
     

5. connect the new phase wires:

   • cut the phase wires to length and strip them
   • solder the phase wires to the motor coils
   • cover solder joints with heat shrink
     
     

6. connect the hall and temp sensor wires:

   • twist the small gauge wires together and cover the bundle with heat shrink
   • cut the wires to length and solder them to the PCB in the same color order as before: [ temp ]-[ 5v ]-[ ground ]-[ hall 1 ]-[ hall 2 ]-[ hall 3 ]
     
     

7. secure and seal the new cable:

   • tie the string back in place to keep the wires away from the rotating cover plate
   • use flowable silicone or another heat resistant sealant to waterproof and further hold the wires in place
   • [optional for further waterproofing] adjust the length of the motor cable in the axle, then fill both side of the axle with silicone to fully seal the axle
   • let the sealant cure overnight
     
     

8. reassemble the motor:

   • install new o rings on the axle
   • slide the cover plate over the new motor connector and press into place
   • spin the cover plate to ensure the wires aren’t rubbing
   • attach a rail to the plate side of the stator and lower the stator into the hub
   • align the bolt holes in the cover, then press the stator firmly down into the hub
   • reinstall the cover plate bolts, tightening in a star pattern to apply even pressure around the plate
   • reinstall motor into your board and re-run motor wizard
     
     

[rene_the_hacker]

we upgraded your account, you can now post more pictures.
can you try to copy and paste the images into the first post? let me know if that works.

[fosterqc]

Hoping to collab on some wiring diagrams for the superflux, hypercore.
Female:

@quinnwheel

cut the wires to length and solder them to the PCB in the same color order as before: [ temp ]-[ 5v ]-[ ground ]-[ hall 1 ]-[ hall 2 ]-[ hall 3 ]

Basically correct me if im wrong but you just need to follow the red, black ± and white for temp rule and you will be coolin.
This might be needed. It is missing the labels for standard color, and what the pinout to halls actually is.

[HollaPainYo]

Thanks for this. I have a Superflux MK1 that I would like to do this to. Is the proceedure the same?

[fosterqc]

I imagine the same trouble getting the wires fished through the stator axle exist but its also possible.

[Drumbeater82]

Where is the rubber seal for the cable? I pulled out a 1/4” thick piece of rubber that fits inside the axle, is this the rubber gasket? If so I damaged it in attempting to dig away the silicone from inside the axle. Also, what type of silicone would you recommend for holding the phase wires in place?

[deanaoxo]

This guide is outstanding. Now where can I get the bare plugs? Pre-wired plugs are not what I need.

aoxo

[Scottprotege]

Superflux Motor Connector (Male) - For non-SuperFlux motors

[deanaoxo]

Perhaps the absolute most frustrating picture I’ve ever seen. Finally got a GT/GTS knockoff cable from TechRails, but no Male side, had to harvest that from a broken GT. GRRRRRRRR If you do order the TechRails cable, be prepared to wait, and know you have to find the other end somewhere else. Truly cringe web site with good stuff, It will get to you, eventually.

[deanaoxo]

I will add some pictures later, but feel it is important to add this WARNING. Make sure you use NEW silicone, if that’s what you are using. I didn’t. I used some that was older, not knowing that the agents within were now gone, and it was never going to harden. Yes, I should have known, I’m only 71 though, so still learning. Also, my AI says you prolly shouldn’t fill that cavity as shown, as that will most likely slow the drying of the center mass and is not needed. 100% GE Silicone IS okay to use it seems. One other tip while I think of it. The rubber Butterly looking thing is tough, and can be removed(should be removed)saved and reused. To remove you need a pick and hook set. Be careful, take your time, bring it out when you remove the (old) cable.

[LOAFFETTE]

A note for people wanting to replicate this:

• The motor cable supplied by fungineers is extremely long, more length than you need. Excess length can be pushed down the axle.
• I used Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker as my flow able silicone
• zipties used should be able to handle the temperatures your motor will reach. If your motor reaches high temps, aim for high-temp zipties

Additional note:
You shouldn’t need to unwrap the copper wires from the stator itself. You should be able to heat up the solder “cups” and then pull the old cable out. Be warned, it will be very, very hot.